Cymbidium

Cymbidiums are strikingly beautiful and the easiest to grow of all the orchids. Tall flower spikes bear multiple long-lasting blooms well above attractive foliage.
Available as mini and maxi specimens in a multitude of colours, they make excellent temporary indoor plants blooming continuously for up to three months.

Light and Position
Cymbidiums require ±50% shade so place under shade-cloth or the dappled shade of trees. They will not flower if they do not have a good drop in temperature from day to night during spike induction time (January to March). Cymbidiums can tolerate temperatures ranging from 1°C to 30°C, but flowers and buds must not be exposed to frost. They like plenty of free air circulation around them.
Humidity
Above average moisture in the air is required, so place them on humidity trays (a shallow dish filled with pebbles and water). A misty spray over the leaves & into the plant (but not flowers) is recommended in hot dry weather.
Watering
Correct watering is very important and mornings are best. Ensure good drainage as they don't like soggy, wet conditions, but never allow them to dry out.
Feeding
Feed regularly with a special orchid fertiliser of your choice.
Flush the plant at least once a month to leach out any accumulated nutrients.
Repotting
Cymbidiums prefer being root bound and should only be repotted when the pseudo-bulbs start growing over the edge of the pot. Each division should have at least 3 or 4 mature pseudo-bulbs with leaves. Back-bulbs (where leaves have died down completely) can be repotted singly in small pots. Don't break up the plant too often as this affects flowering
Lifestyle stocks coconut husks, the ideal planting medium for orchids.

Phalaenopsis 'Moth Orchids'

These tropical, epiphytic plants grow naturally on trees in East Asia. They can be grown indoors in conditions similar to those for African Violets.
Light and Position
A bright window sill or 75% shade, never direct sunlight. A temperature of 16 - 25OC is optimum. Do not expose to dry winds.
Watering
Water from the top during the mornings, ensuring continuous moisture but never soaking wet or standing in water. Use a humidity tray to create a suitable microclimate. Surround with other foliage plants to improve climatic conditions. Mist exposed roots on hot days.
Feeding
Add a teaspoon of a suitable orchid food to 5 litres water with every 3rd watering. Mist exposed roots on hot days
Potting
Phalaenopsis' roots like to 'wander' over pot rims so don't repot unless absolutely overgrown. Use bark chips as the potting medium.

Cattleya

A wonderfully varied, very showy orchid often seen in wedding bouquets and corsages.
Light and Position
Good bright light under shady pergolas or in the semi-shade under trees is ideal.
Will do well in a minimum of ±10°C in winter to ±25°C in summer.
Watering
Water from the top, soaking the pot & spraying the leaves. Good drainage is essential - the pot should dry rapidly. Water less if humidity is high.
Potting
If, after about 3 years, the Cattleya has outgrown its pot, repot using special orchid pots with side holes. When actively growing, divide the rhizome into pieces of at least four segments each. Use a free-draining orchid mix, coconut husks or a mix of equal parts pine bark and charcoal.

Dendrobium orchids (Tree Orchids)

These are not difficult to manage and are best grown in hanging pots under trees or open structures covered by shade cloth.
Light, Position and Watering
Dendrobiums require plenty of light, with shade during the hottest part of the day. When growing freely they need hot weather and moisture and when their growing season is over they need cooler, drier conditions. Leaves will fall from the deciduous species but evergreen varieties should not suffer dramatically. Continue the rest period until the flower buds are prominent - watering only when signs of shrivelling are apparent.
Potting
Dendrobiums grow slowly and seldom need re-potting, unless new growth is pushing forth roots. Use a special orchid mix or coconut husks, keeping the planting medium level with the base of new growth. Stake and tie plants so that they are firmly anchored.
Feeding
Fertilise in September or early October with an orchid food of your choice.